Did anyone realize Santa Monica has an airport? We didn’t either. Apparently it’s been used since 1917, thus making it one of the oldest continually operating airports in all of the United States. Fascinating. But besides it being a quirky fun fact and a part of aviation history, the tiny single-runway hub served as the backdrop for one of Los Angeles’s most eclectic events, Frieze Los Angeles.
On a dreary, overcast day, Day 1 of the art fair commenced in a windswept part of Santa Monica, a line of ubers and black cars with VIPs stretched out waiting at the entrance. From across the globe collectors, artists, curators, and the art-curious gathered in two huge tents to see what’s next in the world of contemporary art and culture. An offshoot of Frieze Magazine, Frieze was conceptualized as an international art fair by the title’s founders, with its inaugural event taking place in London in 2003. Twenty years later, the multi-day showcase is one of the premier art events of the industry, with festivals in New York, London, Los Angeles, and Seoul. This year’s Frieze fair in Los Angeles included over 120 galleries presenting their works: There was a traveling marching band with an accompanying dance line playing out “Swag Surf” (from performance artist Autumn Breon), cutesy inflatables the size of a small building (from ceramicist Alake Shilling) and bronze tortillas in a Chevy cargo van (an exhibition from artist Ruben Ochoa). And alongside these thought-provoking and memorable moments, was some great fashion.
Photo:
Jacqueline Lee for Who What Wear
In loose terms, the global art fair is like the equivalent of fashion month— it’s the magnet that brings a diverse force of creative minds all to one place. Though less of the traveling circus aspect of Paris, Milan, London, and New York fashion weeks, and more low-key. Instead of sitting front-row with a photographer waiting in the wings for a picture, at Frieze celebrities walk around in hats and sunglasses trying to avoid them. But from the artists to the collectors and educators that attend Frieze, there’s still a sense that the same people who love art also take fashion very seriously.
Buzzing around Barker Hangar, we shuffled from exhibition to exhibition to scout all of the great style on the scene. A number of big seasonal trends were spotted in the crowd, but with a side of eccentricity which was a friendly reminder that people like to do things a bit differently. For a bleak day, the fashion surely turned up the heat—keep scrolling to see the best style moments at Frieze Los Angeles.
Photo:
Jacqueline Lee for Who What Wear
Where does one get a half-blazer, half-bomber jacket? Visual artist Liz Lee sourced her unconventional topper from a theatre department sale at CalArts, where she’s also an MFA student. “I got this for like a $1,” she recalls. “The program has students creating costumes for student contemporary dance shows and plays so you get these bizarre SKIMS-like bodysuits and cool period pieces.” The underrated beauty of a dual or two-faced jacket like this—it can theoretically function in both casual and buttoned-up situations, but for Frieze Lee wore it with baggy jeans from brand 69, and cool wraparound shades.
Agolde
Cass Baggy Cargo Pants
$258
Favorite Daughter
The Ex-Boyfriend Button-Up Shirt
$168
Photo:
Jacqueline Lee for Who What Wear
Red hosiery has long dominated among the trends Who What Wear editors are obsessed with, but it may just be time to give another color a try. We later learned from art executive Zina Reed, that this sculptural dress was from none other than Zara (we could’ve sworn it would be archival Nina Ricci or something). The pairing of equally bold grape purple tights really elevates this to high fashion territory that we just had to document the entire ‘fit.
& Other Stories
Voluminous Sleeve Mini Dress
$129
$55
Calzedonia
50 Denier Total Comfort Soft Touch Tights
$15
Photo:
Jacqueline Lee for Who What Wear
A cloud of expertly constructed fabric, Cecile Bahnsen dresses are so instantly recognizable that one can spot them a mile away. So it didn’t surprise us once Frieze co-curator Sonya Tamaddon revealed that her cobalt blue frock was a creation from her “dear friend” Bahnsen. “I only wear ruffles when it’s Cecile—she makes it feel like armor,” she says. To add more drama the curator incorporated three more major runway trends—sheer tights, big big earrings, and ballet flats.
Cecilie Bahnsen
Uma Popcorn Stretch-Cotton Mini Dress
$1800
Charles & Keith
Black Tie-Around Ballerina Flats
$53
Photo:
Jacqueline Lee for Who What Wear
We caught this art educator at the tail end of Frieze Day 1 just as the sun was beginning to set, and the crowd trickling out of the fair grounds. It was the earrings and headband that immediately stuck out, a reminder that good accessories will always spark conversation (and compliments).
Shashi
Eden Earring
$155
Lele Sadoughi
Jet Pearl Bardot Ribbon Headband
$75
Photo:
Jacqueline Lee for Who What Wear
If relaxed is the keyword for the Californian dress code, then double denim is the Los Angeles equivalent of a suit. Adriana Bach, a model based in New York City, wore a dark-wash SLVRLKE denim set with Celine sunglasses and a Bottega Veneta mini Jodie bag. “I’ve worn this set for 7 days in a row,” she proclaims.
Slvrlake
Black Stella Jeans
$270
$146
Celine Eyewear
Triomphe Oval-Frame Acetate Sunglasses
$510
Photo:
Jacqueline Lee for Who What Wear
Long Taoran, an art collector, traveled from Beijing to attend Frieze. While she scouts art from around the world for collection, her visit to the fair marks her first time in L.A. The collector went leaned on laid-back staples— New Balance sneakers, Margiela side slit jeans, and a blazer and bag from Lemaire, “You need to be comfortable to walk around the whole day,” says Long, “I love really unique things.”
Zara
Oversized Wool Blend Blazer
$149
Maison Margiela
Cutout High-Rise Wide-Leg Jeans
$712
Photo:
Jacqueline Lee for Who What Wear
On the other side of the trending coin, art people just like to dress for themselves—regardless of what’s “in”. Case in point, Creative Director and Frieze London Head of Design, Claude d’Avoine. For a day browsing through exhibits with friend fashion publicist Bradley Jacobs, d’Avoine wore custom-made floral pants from a local designer with vintage accessories.
Nike
Air Max 95 Essential Sneaker
$175
7 For All Mankind
Ultra High Rise Bootcut Jeans
$258
$155
Photo:
Jacqueline Lee for Who What Wear
A more surprising observation of the day: artsy people love cowboy hats. One of the most marvelous hats we encountered belonged to visual artist Arielle Pytka. In custom-made python pants and fingers stacked with statement silver rings (pieces she’s accumulated over the years), Pytka’s outfit stood out among the sea of The Row separates and Gucci loafers. “I ride horses a lot and my dad lived in Santa Fe for many years so I was exposed to a lot of western culture,” she says. Along with a Rick Owens sweater, and a big buckle belt gifted by a friend, the artist completed her outfit with special cowboy boots from Pskaufman. “He’s a local designer in LA and he hand makes all of his boots. They’re incredible.”
Wyeth
Cash Cowboy Hat
$88
Rick Owens
Longline Wool Wrap Cardigan
$675
Pskaufman
No.1001 Freeway Chelsea Boot
$399
More Cool Looks From Frieze Los Angeles:
Photo:
Jacqueline Lee for Who What Wear. In image: Leslie Siebert and Jack Siebert.
Photo:
Jacqueline Lee for Who What Wear.
Photo:
Jacqueline Lee for Who What Wear.
Photo:
Jacqueline Lee for Who What Wear. In image: Veronica Fernandez
Photo:
Jacqueline Lee for Who What Wear. In Image: Bradley Jacobs.
Next up: Fashion Has a Plus-Size Problem—These 7 Designers Are Here to Change That
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