Haider Ackermann has been named the new creative director of Tom Ford, effective immediately, a press release announced on Wednesday (Sept. 4). The Colombian-born, Paris-based designer succeeds Peter Hawkins, a company veteran who left the creative director role in July, less than a year after taking over from Tom Ford himself. “It is with tremendous pride that I will seek to honor the legacy of Tom Ford, a man I have long admired and have the utmost respect for,” said Ackermann of his new role, “I am very excited about what lies ahead.”
Greater Heights
Ackermann, who is critically acclaimed for his sensual tailoring (worn often by muses and celebrity clients including Tilda Swinton, Zendaya, and Timothée Chalamet), was also appointed Creative Director at Canada Goose in May this year. His recent roles include collaborations with Jean-Paul Gaultier—for whom he guest designed the Spring/Summer 2023 haute couture collection. Before that, Ackermann served as creative director of the French luxury men’s label Berluti for three seasons (2016-2018).
In light of his new appointment, Ackermann will be based in Paris, where he will lead Tom Ford’s design teams, and also continue in his role at Canada Goose on a part-time basis.
Given that Tom Ford is owned by the Estée Lauder Companies and licensed to the Ermenegildo Zegna Group, Ackermann will report to Guillaume Jesel, Tom Ford President and CEO and Head of Luxury Business Development at the Estée Lauder Companies, as well as Lelio Gavazza, CEO of Tom Ford Fashion at the Ermenegildo Zegna Group.
Big Expectations
Ackermann’s first collection for Tom Ford will debut at a runway show during the AW25 edition of Paris Fashion Week in March 2025. Tom Ford himself is particularly looking forward to that show. Without hiding his excitement, he said: “I have long been a great fan of Haider’s work. I find both his womenswear and menswear equally compelling. He is an incredible colorist, his tailoring is sharp, and above all, he is modern. We share many of the same historical references, and I could not be more excited to see what he does with the brand. I suspect that I will be the first on my feet to applaud after his show in March.”
In a statement shared with Vogue Business, Ermenegildo ‘Gildo’ Zegna, chairman and CEO of Ermenegildo Zegna Group, said: “The Tom Ford fashion business has long had tremendous growth potential. The appointment of Haider as the brand’s new creative director will further strengthen the team we are building and makes me even more confident in the future of Tom Ford Fashion.”
Tom Ford’s Buyout Brief
- After Tom Ford’s founding in 2005, the brand licensed its menswear line to Zegna in 2006. In 2022, Tom Ford sold a majority stake in his brand to Estée Lauder Companies Inc (ELC) for $2.8 billion. This deal allowed Zegna to expand its reach to all Tom Ford fashion categories.
- ELC acquired the brand’s beauty and skincare business while licensing the fashion business to Zegna, which already operated the menswear division.
- By April 2023, the acquisition was completed, with Zegna acquiring Tom Ford International, the entity responsible for the fashion business, through a joint operation with ELC.
Featured image: COURTESY OF BERLUTI/MARK ABRAHAMS
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