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Making a statement with a black double-breasted linen suit . . . in the summer.
Menswear and practicality go hand in hand. In fact, a lot of classic menswear was designed and created with utility in mind — in other words, to serve a very specific purpose. Consider the ticket pocket, the Solaro suit, the shooting jacket or vest, surgeon’s cuffs, to name a small handful.
But as much enjoyment as us menswear enthusiasts get out of reveling in the history of how a certain feature came to be, much like people who wear Rolex Submariners, we’re generally not using these things for their intended and original practical function these days.
Does it matter? Absolutely not.
But then there are some things that might make you go, “hmmm…” Things that aren’t necessarily breaking any so-called “rules,” but things that seem so at odds with reason — and perhaps common sense — that could have you scratching your head and asking, “why???”
Wearing a black double-breasted suit in the summertime could be one of those things.
But far from being curious, I would call it one of menswear’s ultimate power moves. Let’s explore.
But Why?
On the surface, wearing a black double-breasted suit during the summer might seem completely ridiculous.
First, we’re talking about a black suit . . . in the summertime. Last I checked, black attracts heat. The goal of summer clothing is to help you stay cooler, right?
Second, keeping with the goal of clothing helping you stay cooler, during the summer you generally want less coverage, not more. And a double-breasted jacket falls into the more coverage category.
Those two things alone may seem disqualifying.
Now, this particular suit does have one thing going for it in terms of mitigating the heat-attracting and extra-coverage “problems” — it’s linen. And, as you know, linen is extremely light and breathable, which certainly helps in this situation.
But let me tell you something about wearing a black double-breasted linen suit in the summer . . .
You don’t wear a black double-breasted linen suit in the summer because it’s practical. You wear a black double-breasted linen suit in the summer because it’s one of menswear’s ultimate power moves.
Why Not?!
You don’t wear a black double-breasted linen suit in the summer because it’s practical. You wear a black double-breasted linen suit in the summer because it’s one of menswear’s ultimate power moves.
You’re basically saying, I know how to wear a double-breasted suit; I know when it’s appropriate; I know that black and double-breasted aren’t particularly synonymous with summer clothing; but you know what? I don’t care.
While some may be blessed with this kind of devil-may-care attitude, arriving at a point in one’s style journey where you are comfortable doing something like this takes time. Hell, you may never really get there and that is completely okay.
For me, although I generally try to stay in a pretty conservative and traditional box, from time to time I do get the itch to do something a little more forward-leaning. It’s one of the reasons I consider my style classic with a modern sensibility. And since I’ve been really enjoying black tailored garments lately, I felt like this particular suit for this particular season was the way to go.
(If you follow the Style Guide closely, you’ve seen this suit already in a monochromatic styling.)
I’ve never really been afraid to think a bit outside the box occasionally with my style — you’re talking to the person who had no issues wearing a bold Thom Browne sport coat back in the day — but only when it feels right and authentic to me. If you question your decision at all or are the least bit self-conscious about it, it’s going to show through. But if you own it and truly love it, that will help you pull it off with aplomb.
My Black Double-Breasted Linen Suit
Let me tell you, black linen is not easy to find. I know because when I decided that a black linen suit was something I wanted to offer in the He Spoke Style Shop, it took more than a little digging through the fabric books to find something, er, suitable.
Thankfully, I was able to find something and it’s incredible.
When it comes to linen — especially a black linen — I like something with a little bit of heft. Something that’s going to have some structure while still being light and breathable.
The jacket. I chose a 6×2 double-breasted styling with peaked lapels — of course — half-lined, double vent, and flap pockets. Now, if you look at the photos in this post you may be saying, wait, those look like jetted pockets, so what gives? Well, a little-known secret is that flap pockets can be tucked in to give the illusion that they are jetted, which in the case of a black suit makes a lot of sense since it’s a more formal option. Though options are good to have and you’re getting a wonderful two-for-one when you choose flap pockets.
The trousers. I’ve styled them as you would expect from me. Side adjusters instead of belt loops — nice and clean. A single reverse pleat. And plain bottom, which only makes sense.
As always, any of these details can be customized to match your personal style preferences when you order from us — this is just my suggested styling.
The Bottom Line
Wearing a black double-breasted linen suit in summer is a bold, yet stylish move. It defies conventions yet underlines a strong sense of personal style. It’s not about practicality, but about making a statement. Embrace it, own it, and show the world that fashion is also about breaking boundaries.
Thanks, as always, for reading.