All eyes were on Milan as a jam-packed schedule of 176 appointments, presentations, and parties for the Spring/Summer 2024 season took place as fashion week continued its tour of Europe. But three particular shows received the majority of the attention. On the 21st, Peter Hawkings made his debut at Tom Ford, presenting a lineup that paid a lot of respect to both his mentor and the house’s founder. Simone Bellotti showed his debut line at Bally two days later. But it was Sabato De Sarno, who presented his first collection as Gucci’s creative director on the 22nd, that made the most news this season. Milan Fashion Week SS24
De Sarno’s concept for the Italian company was eventually revealed after four collections were created without a creative director, and it became evident what route he planned to take the house following Alessandro Michele’s shocking departure last year.
De Sarno’s debut collection for Gucci was dubbed “Ancora,” which the fashion house translates as “now, also then.” The designer focused on practical clothing inspired by the city’s streets—a departure from Michele’s theatrical collections for the house (the show was originally scheduled to take place on the Brera pavements, but rain forced a change to the Gucci Hub)—but with Gucci-specific flashes of glitz and craftsmanship. As a result, references to common clothing items like the tank top, the hoodie, jeans, and tailoring meet baby doll gowns decorated with crystals or outerwear layered with shimmering metal tassels. The introduction of “Ancora Rosso,” a red color resembling oxblood that appeared throughout the collection, was another notable development.
At Blumarine’s SS24 presentation, angels and butterflies were the motif of choice as a representation of lightness, airiness, and freedom. The collection was full of swishy fabric strands, asymmetrical ruffled skirts, and deftly placed draping. As a tribute to Blumarine’s contemporary free spirit, mesh cuts and translucent PVC dresses were contrasted with butterfly-shaped thongs. The sky is the sole limit for the Blumarine wearer, who is simultaneously a goddess and a fairy.
In honor of her ten years as the brand’s creative director, Genny’s Sara Cavazza Facchini created the SS24 collection. The collection is designed to represent a woman’s bright, radiant aura and is anchored in her characteristic color of white with touches of yellow and rose gold. The color scheme drastically changes with the finale, which is entirely done in a deep, luscious crimson, exuding sensuality and leaving a lasting imprint in the audience’s imaginations. This theme permeates practically all 48 outfits, in addition to her characteristic “X” pattern.
In order to see Diesel’s SS24 runway show, which designer Glenn Martens declared free and open to the public in the spirit of inclusivity, crowds gathered in the pouring rain. In keeping with the spirit of the brash, stern collection that was unfolding, models stomped down the runway in the style of a red carpet to the sound of harsh techno. Although Martens’ affinity for denim was still evident, the designer added his own spin to the material with the use of devoré, a burning method that gives clothes the appearance of practically disintegrating in real time. In keeping with the brand’s rough-around-the-edges character, jerseys and silks were likewise damaged, conveying an element of grit and recklessness. Milan Fashion Week SS24
Take a look at some of our favorite designs from Milan Fashion Week SS24 shows…
Versace
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Gucci
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Tom Ford
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Blumarine
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Etro
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Diesel
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Roberto Cavalli
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Alberta Ferretti
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Fendi
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Bottega Veneta
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Genny
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Boss
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Moschino
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See the full collections on Vogue Runway.
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