Every summer, fine jewelry purveyors and devotees from around the world congregate at The Wynn in Las Vegas for Couture—not to be confused with Haute Couture Week in Paris, this Couture is , the world’s preeminent trade show and showcase for fine jewelry, from the most established industry heavyweights to breakout independent creatives. Sure, they say “what happens in Vegas stays in Vegas,” but we’ve decided to share the best rising talent we encountered at the five-day extravaganza. It was a feast for the eyes and a dizzying display of luxury that left me with a strong hankering for emeralds, which I have not yet been able to kick. Scroll through to learn more about up-and-coming ten fine jewelry brands we’re keeping an eye on.
Gemella
Since 2020, twin sisters and third generation jewelers Anna and Rachel have been setting some of the world’s most sublime stones with a youthful verve. Case in point? A Mozambique ruby strung playfully onto a leather cord takes center stage in their new collection, Technicolor, which also includes drop earrings boasting seven carats of emeralds and a mega-sized update to their signature Sweetheart necklaces.
Marie Lichtenberg
The yellow gold statement pieces by Paris-based Marie Lichtenberg are like an extension of the designer herself: unfathomably chic and wildly irreverent. Her trademarks are brushed gold cuffs etched with cheeky phrases like “God’s Favorite” and chunky chains of all sizes—at Couture, she wore layers of both with a crisp blue button-down (it was magnifique). But it’s the campy designs that’ll linger with you years later; think: a gold Magic Eight Ball pendant that functions just like the original toy (it’s made in collaboration with Mattel) and chunky rings that open up to reveal a single diamond or stone-cut curio inside.
Fie Isolde
Nature’s imperfections have proven enduring sources of inspiration for this Danish jeweler:rather than trying to soften or disguise them, she embraces them wholeheartedly. Hence her signature raw, organic finishes, which serve as a perfect canvas for the microscopic etchings that distinguish her new collection. What appears as little more than black lines to the naked eye are in fact messages that can be personalized up to 850 characters and are visible only with a loupe (which comes with each purchase).
HOWL
In Venice Beach, California, Tini Courtney meticulously carves and molds each of her pieces in wax for hours at a time before making the final mold. Bearing traces of her handwork, the results are akin to treasures from bygone a era. Since launching in 2019, gemstones have been her bread and butter, but this season she introduced south sea pearls whose organic shapes meld seamlessly with her old-world romance.
Harwell Godfrey
In Lauren Harwell Godfrey’s pieces, nods to ancient symbolism—patterns culled from the African diaspora, mythological emblems—coalesce with stunning precious gemstones chosen specifically for their healing energy. What ensues is a compelling air of mysticism that permeates the jolts of whimsy (see: the salt shaker pendants) and smattering of Muzo emeralds, opals, rubies, and more in her new Supernova collection.
Jenna Blake
Though Jenna Grosfeld’s line isn’t particularly new (she launched it ten years ago), her oceanic pieces are delectably exuberant, a dream for the summer season—and undoubtedly worthy investments. Stones ranging from antique diamonds and milky pink rhodochrosite to tiger’s eye and every hue of opal take shape in carved shell pendants delicately lined in diamonds and in heishi beaded necklaces punctuated with a diamond-flecked gold rondelle at the center.
Tabayer
Only three years in and designer Nigora Tokhtabayeva is already cornering the market with her striking works of simplicity. Using polished Fairmined gold (white and yellow), she melds sculptural, sinuous silhouettes with lithe, tubular forms—and finishes with a light sprinkling of ethically sourced diamonds. At Couture, she debuted new colored versions of her sensual signatures with jasper, yellow agate, and chalcedony.
NevernoT
For Nina Dzhokhadze and Natia Chkhartishvili—the Georgian duo behind this London-based label—color isn’t merely encouraged, it’s the beating heart of their line. Boasting retro shapes and jolly rancher-like stones enhanced with acid-bright enamel, their chunky statements are the sort that steal all the attention. Their latest assortment is as buoyant as ever: a clever display of trunk-style suitcase pendants swathed in diamonds and sapphires.
Rainbow K
Parisian duo Kelly Souied and Kelia Toledano have a taste for the subversive. And though they use only diamonds and gold (white and yellow), their light-refracting works still pack a delightful punch. Expect motifs that recall piercings, S&M , and utilitarian accents rendered with glossy mixed metals, angular cuts, and pops of pavé that read sleek, cool, and a tad naughty.
Octavia Elizabeth
For a practice that can easily give way to freewheeling bling, there’s something especially admirable about those who know when to reel it in and exercise restraint. Such is the power of Octavia Elizabeth Zamagias’s creations—each a model of classic glamour, yet still remarkably unique. Riviera, the new collection that was on display at Couture, takes cues from Santa Barbara with undulating shapes, verdant emeralds, scintillating opal orbs, and her first forays into wood and leather.