Saint Laurent played a careful game of reveal and conceal for its fall 2024 collection. Contrasting the transparent with the opaque, creative director Anthony Vaccarello focused on fabrics that were either gossamer-thin or satisfyingly thick. Think: strapless bandage dresses, midi-length halter gowns, and all the usual Saint Laurent signature skirt-and-top sets—newly rendered in deliciously translucent sheers. On the opposite end of the spectrum, there were cocoon-like coats in slick patent textures, silky sleek dresses with built-in garter belts, and large furry coats and scarves held as stoles while models strolled down the runway.
The inspiration behind it all, to put it simply, was naked dressing. “Evoking the indelible ‘naked’ gown worn for her last public appearance by Marilyn Monroe—a frequent reference for the maison—an unsettling ambivalence cuts through the looks,” stated the show notes. “Puncturing the propriety of feminine artifice, ephemeral lightness turns out to be an illusion: can purity be provocative?”
Despite the theme being a relatively common concept in fashion, Saint Laurent attempted to shape a new version through careful codes that felt closely tied to the house. For example, every single model donned very chic sheer turbans (a stunning style statement on its own, even without the naked dresses). And many of them wore over-the-top chunky glass bangles and earrings. Skinny little belts emphasized exposed waists. Likewise, the color palette maintained the Vaccarello-era Saint Laurent look of burnt browns, earthy greens and yellows, and plenty of black and beige (save a few pops of royal purple, burgundy, and teal here and there).
To add to the idea of new naked dressing, materials took on new lives and garments were not made of the expected textiles. For example, a liquid-looking suit came in crepe georgette and a dense, fluffy coat was created from thousands of marabou feathers. Those subtle details made everything feel inherently luxurious.
Examining and recontextualizing naked dressing feels incredibly relevant, especially given the state of red carpets today. Not only is it a major celebrity trend, its popularity has been reflected in mainstream fashion culture as well. This collection was a celebration of Vaccarello’s great wizardry—his ability to select bits and bobs of classic Saint Laurent and make them feel brand new again.
