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This was a cinematic reverie of impossible glamour. Michael Kors doesn’t do cynicism, or anything less than pure beauty. His spring 2025 collection was a study in moody romance that felt pulled from page, stage, and silver screen.

He hit every mark. The show opened with the striking simplicity of a black bustier halter dress, belted and slit up the thigh, and progressed through sexy minimalism, relaxed sporty tailoring, and textured femininity defined by raffia hand-embroideries and sunburst pleated skirts that flapped around while the models walked.

Kors’s references included “the romanticism of the 1950s with the sleek simplicity of the 1990s,” according to the show notes, which also mentioned the cinematography of Ripley, Netflix’s update of The Talented Mr. Ripley, as well as Herb Ritts’s photography and Kors’s ongoing collaboration with Italian artisans and craftspeople. Their work was exalted on the sumptuous fabrics and treatments, such as a white Chantilly lace skirt, a taffeta bandeau and matching skirt, and a crepe off-the-shoulder sheath embroidered with faux tortoise paillettes. Shoes included sculptural heels and mules and flat fisherman sandals, two trends that have appeared on numerous New York Fashion Week runways. There were woven bucket bags and artisanal tassels on satchels. The models walked around a set of large-scale sculptural rocks that underscored the grandeur and the simplicity—two virtues Kors does beautifully.

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— Photo by JP Yim/Getty Images for Michael Kors
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