Demna’s American dream is filled with Erewhon shopping bags, tracksuits, enormously oversize sunglasses, gym bags, and to-go coffee cups. At least, that’s if his pre-fall 2024 collection for Balenciaga is any indication. Presented on Windsor Boulevard in the Hancock Park neighborhood of Los Angeles, the designer showed his latest pieces against a setting that could only exist in the City of Angels: palm trees lined the street—which served as a makeshift runway—while the famed Hollywood sign was visible in the distance.
The collection was full of all the modern Balenciaga pieces one might expect from the Demna era—this time, divided between casual, real-life wear and red carpet looks. First came the outfits focused on the stereotypical L.A. lifestyle (think hoodies thrown onto bomber jackets or layered over sporty shorts with gold chain necklaces). Underwear peeked out from the tops of tracksuit waistbands; the show notes alluded to paparazzi photos of the aughts. Models careened around the pavement while holding phones to their ears, some toting leather Erewhon shopping bags that were part of a new collaboration with the French fashion house. (The jerseys, caps, and aprons from the capsule start at $425, in case you’re wondering.)
And then there was the distinctly L.A. audience: Kim Kardashian wore leggings, a cropped hoodie, and carried an Erewhon bag full of fresh flowers, which she told press that Denma wanted her to carry as a purse. The irony of the ultimate reality television star playing the role of the ultimate realist may have been one of the most fascinating moments of the show. Elsewhere, Sexxy Red wore an oversize hoodie, matching sweat shorts, and a devil horn headband.
For those who so desperately wanted to see riffs on Cristóbal Balenciaga’s classic couture creations, Demna showed a few bodycon gowns, draped dresses, and sculptural pieces fit for awards season. There were a couple old Hollywood-style cocooning coats—with a twist, of course. A cobalt blue version enveloped Cardi B as she made her runway debut.
It wouldn’t be a Balenciaga show without its own commentary through casting: Brigitte Nielsen strutted down the concrete walkway in thigh-high stiletto boots, black jeans, and a tight black turtleneck, her bag overstuffed like a commuter or real-world fashion fan on the go. One model wore a hooded jacket with a built-in scarf, which Balenciaga described as a paparazzi deterrent. The final look, a white gown, shielded the model’s face ever so slightly.
In recent seasons, there’s been tons of talk about wearability. What is the line between real life and runway—and does that line even exist anymore? At this moment in fashion, there’s a definite interest from the public in merging the world of high fashion and the everyday. Whether or not it’s camp, cultural commentary, or a verified craving to make things feel more approachable is anyone’s debate.
