One of the warmest winter destinations in Europe is the gorgeous Algarve, but somehow, the capital city anchoring Portugal’s slice of paradise is often overlooked in favor of surrounding beach resort towns.
Americans can actually fly nonstop here, but rather than immediately venture off upon landing to Albufeira, Lagos, or where I recently stayed in the lesser-known gem of Quarteira, a buzzing Old Town with cheap eats and fine wine and numerous golden beaches await.
Within the Algarve region is Faro, a city and district of the same name, but we’ll focus on the city itself as a perfect winter escape in one of Portugal’s most underrated getaways.
A Timeless Cityscape
One reason travelers love jetting off to Europe is to immerse themselves in a glimpse of the past.
Some capital cities, such as London, are a mix of historic marvels and towering condos, but places like Faro skipped the ladder, embracing their roots with well-preserved cathedrals and picturesque cobbled streets.
There are no skyscrapers here taking away from the city’s authenticity. What you’ll find are very friendly locals, affordable yet lavish seaside hotels, and a buzzing Old Town that’s a must-visit.
When I visited in the fall, we made loops around the city and always found ourselves back in Old Town sipping $2 wine and shop-hopping.
To be fair, sometimes “Old Town” can be a buzzword for seasoned travelers who think it may be too touristy and curated.
That is not the case here…
Faro’s Old Town felt more Havana-esque with cracked facades and much-needed touch-up paint that somehow exude character and charm through a maze of architectural heritage.
Streets do become packed in the city’s heartbeat, but it wasn’t too overwhelming like the neighboring tourist trap town of Albufeira with nonstop pestering vendors and elbow-to-elbow packed streets.
Old Town is definitely your best bet to gain a sense of the city and makes for a great base too with cozy boutique hotels and nearby luxurious seaside stays like Hotel Faro.
Faro’s Pristine Golden Beaches
The city of Faro is equal parts historic admiration and sunny beach days.
There’s no better time to visit than winter, as much of the world is cozied up next to a fireplace in between the headache of deicing windshields and shoveling driveways.
For example, this week is seeing sunny days in the 60s, but you’ll still want to pack a jacket as it dips into the 40s after sundown.
Regardless if it’s Faro’s splendid mild winters or summertime scorchers, the city’s golden beaches are great to visit year-round.
Undoubtedly, Praia da Ilha de Faro (a.k.a. Faro Beach) is the most popular and easiest to access, but Faro also beholds beautiful beaches off-shore amongst a set of scenic barrier islands within a vast lagoon network hidden in plain sight.
Beyond the historic cityscape lies Ria Formosa Natural Park. Here, you’ll discover some of Faro’s best beaches, like Ilha da Culatra, accessible by ferry, and Praia do Farol.
These beaches are a refreshing, tranquil escape from the city buzz, as there are no resorts here, leaving these postcard-worthy shores seemingly untouched.
However, if you would like to stay beachside, your best bet is searching platforms like Vrbo and Airbnb for rentals.
There’s No Such Thing As A Bad Meal In Faro
Your best approach to visiting Faro is to arrive hungry, and you’re guaranteed to leave happy.
Like Spain, many Portugal bars and eateries serve an endless supply of tapas as well as cheap, velvety wine.
I get it; not everyone digs seafood. One unique place I had never seen anything like before actually wasn’t a restaurant at all, but a retail store with floor-to-ceiling cans of various aquatic proteins ranging from octopus, lobster, and sardines to my surprising favorite, very simple codfish in olive oil.
For seafood lovers, you gotta check out The Fantastic World of The Portuguese Sardine.
If seafood isn’t your jam, that’s okay. You have plenty of other options to satisfy your tastebuds, like Frango Piri-Piri (chicken) and the aforementioned tapas, where you should definitely order chorizo.
My favorite restaurant in all of the Algarve was a no-frills, classic Mom & Pop shop, Mercearia São Pedro, the type of place Anthony Bourdain would’ve discovered and fiercely protected from the prying eyes of foodie tourism.
Every bite was sensational, from the small plates of chorizo, mussels, melt-in-your-mouth buttery lobster, and a never-ending supply of olives to snack on between courses – a true 10/10 hole-in-the-wall off the tourist path and one of my favorite meals in recent memory.
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