True to its name, the resort (also known as cruise) season inspires peak wanderlust. The feeling is only made greater by the fact that luxury houses often present their pre-season collections in cinematic destinations across the globe. For its part, Chanel took the idea of “cinematic” quite literally, kicking off the season with a splashy show staged at Los Angeles’s Paramount Studios. On May 9, Virginie Viard unveiled her sartorial ode to Hollywood against the backdrop of Paramount’s famous water tower where a massive movie screen played a video of a model Alma Jodorowsky channeling Jane Fonda in a beach workout video directed by Inez & Vinoodh. The presentation came a week after Chanel and its many brand ambassadors (among them, Kristen Stewart and Margot Robbie, who both sat front row) dominated the Met Gala—and just days after the maison opened its new Peter Marino-designed Beverly Hills boutique. Models hit the roller-rink-turned runway in terry cloth tweeds, glittering robe coats, chunky white sneakers, and gowns that called to mind Tinseltown’s Golden Age of glamour. It was all perfectly on theme for a wardrobe that conjures California dreams.
A week later, on May 16, Gucci became the first brand to ever hold a fashion show at the 14th century Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul. To a soundtrack created by Jung Jae-il, composer for such projects as Parasite and Squid Game, models including Sora Choi and Karen Elson traversed the historic courtyard wearing the final collection from Gucci’s in-house studio team ahead of Sabato de Sarno’s debut as creative director this fall.
Here, a look at the highlights. Check back often as we track the latest and greatest to hit the resort runways.
Gucci
The Look: An homage to digital-age dressing. Cyberpunk goth stompers, glittering hoodie gowns, reinvented bomber jackets, skateboard bags, and edgy evening wear featuring playful jelly cake and cat illustrations by the South Korean artist Ram Han.
The Inspiration: The denizens of Seoul and a global wardrobe that transcends borders. Scuba boots and tops were inspired by the windsurfers and jet-skiers of the Han River. As the final collection from Gucci’s studio team, its designers and artisans interpreted “the house’s codes through their own individual and cultural gazes,” according to the show notes. Youthful touches abounded from the embellished Horsebit bags to the exaggerated versions of the famous Gucci web.
Gucci
Gucci
Gucci
Gucci
Chanel
The Look: A complete wardrobe inspired by L.A. living through the decades. From Venice Beach-ready aerobic gear embellished with the house’s double Cs and light-up roller disco heels to a series of relaxed eveningwear that evoked “cinema’s halcyon age, its empress-like actresses, the bright lights of the projectors that illuminate them, and the eternal Californian sunshine,” per Chanel’s show notes.
The Inspiration: “Between a tribute to the glamour of great film stars and evoking the world of fun to be had with aerobics, sports, and roller skating, between the dream on one hand and what you want to wear on the other, it’s all a question of balance,” Virginie Viard said. “The idea is to offer a breath of fresh air, a voyage, a lighthearted and happy fantasy.”
Chanel
Chanel
Chanel
Chanel
Chanel
Chanel
