“I selected the title Theophilio for my model to pay homage to my household,” says designer Edvin Thompson, who is thought for his carefree, Caribbean-infused aesthetic. “It was my grandfather’s title, and it means ‘to be liked by God.’ ” Thompson moved to america from Jamaica in 2002, on the age of 9, together with his mom and siblings; his father adopted shortly thereafter. “I’ve all the time wished to rejoice Jamaica’s previous, current, and future by my garments,” he provides. “Jamaica is all over the place—it’s straightforward to attract inspiration from the cultural diaspora. There are stunning Caribbean communities throughout, and I wished to assist construct a bridge from my nation to the world.” The normal mesh tank tops one sees at a Jamaican Carnival are recast in Theophilio collections as cropped knits in softer textiles. The Jamaican flag colours of inexperienced, black, and mustard yellow—what Thompson refers to because the “Rasta Pantone”—seem in each present. After which there may be his very deliberate casting: gleaming Black goddesses with knee-length braids who carry themselves with ease.
Joan Smalls, a pal of Thompson’s since he charmed her on a photograph shoot in 2021 for Black Trend Honest, a platform that promotes rising Black designers and Black-owned manufacturers, related instantly with him, noting his ardour and satisfaction: “As a fellow Caribbean, I’m simply so pleased with how Edvin highlights his heritage in his work and stays true to his tradition,” says Smalls, who’s from Puerto Rico. “On prime of that, he makes use of upcycled materials when attainable, which speaks to his need to make a distinction on this fast-consuming trade.”
Thompson held his first style present in 2016 together with his pal Bobby Day, a fellow designer, in a storage on Atlantic Avenue in Brooklyn. The present, full of upcycled items together with denim, leather-based, and oversize cotton shirts that alluded to enjoyable within the solar—core items he has refined and advanced over time—was specific in its island references. Thompson was working out of his condo, as he nonetheless does, and dealing with all elements of the enterprise himself, sometimes providing his wares at pop-ups and occasions in and round his Brooklyn neighborhood. In time, his designs gained a following with musicians like Chlöe Bailey and Summer time Walker, and so they began promoting out on websites like Ssense. Then, in 2022, Thompson obtained a name from the mannequin Imaan Hammam’s stylist—Hammam was, unbeknownst to him, a fan, and she or he wished to put on Theophilio to that yr’s Met Gala. (The theme was “Gilded Glamour.”) The black semi-sheer frock Thompson designed for Hammam recalled Jazz Age flappers, with a Caribbean twist: Intricate beading created a simulation of peacock feathers, a nod to conventional Carnival costumes. The look was topped off with a beaded web cap and feathered equipment. “I did my sketch for that look the night time after I obtained the request,” says Thompson. “It didn’t even really feel like work to me.”
The day after the earlier yr’s Met Gala, Thompson had came upon about his CFDA nomination for the American Rising Designer of the 12 months. “I had misplaced my voice. I used to be in shock. It was simply loopy,” he says. Two months later, he gained the award. “They stated my title, and my soul left my physique.” As he made his solution to the stage to learn a brief speech written on his telephone, he seemed round. Staring again at him from the viewers had been Tom Ford and Anna Wintour, “like proud grandparents.” Ford, who despatched the designer flowers after his win, was really an early affect. “He actually helped me perceive what it’s to be very attractive and complicated on the identical time,” says Thompson. You may see overt nods to Ford’s Gucci within the logo-emblazoned thong Thompson confirmed in his spring/summer time 2022 assortment. Different inspirations embody the movies Metropolis of God, Stomach, and Blade, all of which share a dangerously glamorous enchantment. Anime and comedian books are additionally factors of reference. “I wished to be a cartoonist and comedian artist as a child,” he says.
Thompson has plans to proceed increasing Theophilio’s attain with a wider palette, new textile compositions, and extra intricate beadwork. However cloth isn’t the one medium the designer intends to govern. “I’m engaged on one thing you don’t need to put in your physique,” he says. “One trace: You may drink it.” Final December, the designer partnered with the property of Jean-Michel Basquiat for the exhibition “King Pleasure,” on the Starrett-Lehigh constructing in Manhattan. Working with Black Trend Honest, Thompson and eight different creatives got entry to Basquiat’s artworks and commissioned to make ready-to-wear attire and equipment that will be in dialog with the late artist’s follow. Theophilio’s contributions included two full appears to be like: a high-necked robe with an identical masks, and an embroidered blazer and leather-based trousers impressed by Basquiat’s work, plus a limited-edition T-shirt. “That’s a collaboration I by no means noticed coming,” he says.
Thompson’s goals appear to return to him earlier than he has time to dream them. However the backing he must maintain them has been slower to materialize. “I develop my collections of their entirety in New York, which may be very costly,” he says. “Sustaining your company and integrity whereas getting actual monetary help isn’t any straightforward feat. However I’m not afraid. I’m really actually, actually excited.” Then, tapping as all the time into his Jamaican roots, he quips, “Tings don’t run we; we run tings!”
Hair by Dylan Chavles at MA+Group; make-up by Mimi Quiquine for Maison Quiquine at She Likes Cutie. Mannequin: Joan Smalls at IMG fashions. Images assistants: Jupiter Jones, Nikolai Hagen; style assistant: India Reed; hair assistant: Olivia Mairead